Cavatelli pasta with crackling tomatoes

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Using a sharp knife, make a small slit in each cherry tomato. Put a large pan of well-salted water on to boil. Once boiling, tip in the pasta and cook for 1 minute less than the packet instructions. It is ready when it is a shade chewier than al dente – the final few moments in the sauce will take it to the perfect state of doneness.

   Step 2

   Meanwhile, add the oil, garlic, chillies and bay leaves to a heavy-based frying pan with a lid. Place over a high heat. Once the garlic begins to sizzle, wait for 30 seconds, then carefully tip in the tomatoes. Clamp on the lid. Shake gently to coat the tomatoes in hot oil, then let them crackle and soften for a couple of minutes. Add the oregano and a pinch of salt, stir the tomatoes around, crushing some of them down, then replace the lid. Repeat a couple of minutes later, crushing more of the tomatoes. Wait for a few minutes more and do it again, by which time you will have created a thick, rich, deliciously lush, chunky sauce.

   Step 3

   Before draining the pasta, scoop out a mugful of cooking water and reserve. Drain the pasta and tip into the frying pan, with a slurp of the cooking water. Over a moderate heat, toss the pasta with the sauce for a minute or two until well coated and cooked to the perfect point of al dente. Serve swiftly, scattered with basil leaves and grated Parmesan.

   Step 4

   Wine notes: Feudi di San Gregorio’s Greco di Tufo 2022, from Campania, has enough acidity with touches of almond and ripe stone fruit to match the sweetness of the tomatoes and the flavourful herbs and Parmesan (£18.19; tannico.co.uk).